"Consider the possibility that riding a wave is a meditative act, through which our bodies, consisting mostly of water, flow in harmony with the ancient brine of the sea, the origin of life. The better the wave, the more transcendent the experience."--from a conversation with Lana, Islands on the Fringe
Meanwhile, on the Other Side of the Island. . .
On finding secret surf in an isolated Sumatran cove
On fun as the barometer of surf style
Reflections in a Rice Paddy
On surfing, suffering, and the dichotomy of third world travel
A Moment in Context: Micronesia 1999
On impression vs. reality
Three Views of New Zealand
On exploring options for regular-foots away from the madding crowd
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